If you tore your wetsuit, busted your board, and had post-nasal drip mushroom into a flu, then you probably spent the last two weeks out of the water and on your couch playing Kelly Slater Pro Surfer. I also watched a lot of surf videos on Fuel TV and saw a really weird sketch about two burnout locals at Malibu, starring the Malloy Brothers…and Ben Stiller (turns out, they’re filming a surf comedy together called “Big Wave“). The waves were sorta fun this morning, but man, it was crowded. Over 30 people in the water by 7:30am. One guy was riding a potato chip and catching everything. Another guy looked at the surf timidly from the shore, wishing he brought arm floaties. Today was a mixed bag.
Photo reposted with permissssionss from Swellmagnet.