Shortboarders aplenty this morning. While the building southern hemisphere Swell #1S hasn’t translated into epic surf here at the homebreak, there were still some fun waves to be had. Mostly closeouts though, so boards were shooting off like missiles as people wiped out. The current was pretty weird. It felt like someone had flushed the toilet, forcing everyone to spin in place. I asked a guy for the time and we got to talking and I told him that for the last month I’ve been transitioning from my longboard down to a shortboard. He told me the transition was really tough, that it feels like you’re starting over, and that it took him a long time to get the hang of it. I asked him how long he’d been shortboarding. “Since January,” he said.
Photo reposted with permissssionss from Swellmagnet.