
Chego is the Korean equivalent of umami; I think the rough English translation of both words is bomb ass. Because that is what Korean rice bowl joint Chego! is, from the food prepared with heart to the service sprinkled with TLC to the décor filled with kitsch. We will take each of those high points in order.
Heart in a Bowl.
Roy Choi is known as Papi to some, better known as the Kogi guy to all. Chef Roy is the guy whose food started the food truck revolution in this city with the pretty damned awesome Kogi BBQ truck. From there, a food truck explosion. Yet, I bet that after the smoggy dust is settled in a few years, Kogi will be the only one of a very few with gas left in its tank. Why? Simple: the food is delicious, you can’t really get what they’re selling anywhere else, and Roy’s not trying to rip you off. A fat short rib burrito is $5; some of the best sliders in this city are paired and offered at $5. Affordable sophistication for masses – that’s how the Kogi truck rolls.
I mention all this to say that Chego is at once the same and very different from Kogi. The same because Chef Roy is still aiming towards affordable sophistication – Chego’s tagline, after all, is “Chillax peasant food for the soul.” And yet, different, because where Kogi mashes Korean staples with Mexican street cuisine, Chef Roy focuses on Korean comfort food, period. These are rice bowls, pure and (somewhat) simple. The flavors are unabashedly bold, multilayered, and, where appropriate, hot. The menu amusingly states that dishes are rated “PG13” for spiciness. Don’t say they didn’t warn you.
On to the food, after the jump.
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