It was 2-4 foot, rapid, closing out, etc. The current was very strong and indecisive. One minute it’s pushing you right, then it’s sucking you out to sea, then it’s pushing you down when you wipeout. The people who created the “undeclared” major for undergrads created this current. Later, there was a pool of blood by the outdoor showers because a guy gashed his head on his fin. That kind of sucked. I’ve read that 30% of all surfing injuries are lacerations from fins. I’ve also read that at least 0.0001% of surfers (me) have no idea why these fins have to be sharper than Ginzus. Sharp is good for speed, but I’m not trying to separate frozen meat patties for the BBQ.
Photo of today’s surf reposted with permission from Swellmagnet.