Surf Report 5/29 –


It was 2-4 foot, rapid, closing out, etc. The current was very strong and indecisive. One minute it’s pushing you right, then it’s sucking you out to sea, then it’s pushing you down when you wipeout. The people who created the “undeclared” major for undergrads created this current. Later, there was a pool of blood by the outdoor showers because a guy gashed his head on his fin. That kind of sucked. I’ve read that 30% of all surfing injuries are lacerations from fins. I’ve also read that at least 0.0001% of surfers (me) have no idea why these fins have to be sharper than Ginzus. Sharp is good for speed, but I’m not trying to separate frozen meat patties for the BBQ.

Photo of today’s surf reposted with permission from Swellmagnet.

2 thoughts on “Surf Report 5/29 –”

  1. no offense but i don’t really care about the daily surf reports. Is there any easy way to hide these?

  2. Let me offer a counter point then.

    The only reason I stay subscribed to MetLA is because of the wide diversity (on and off for most of about three years or so). It would be a shame to loose it. It’s pretty straight forward to add filters to feeds these days (either with custom tools or something like Yahoo Pipes) should you really need to filter out Sanjay.

    I’ve also been been enjoying Sanjay’s take on things because it’s so fresh.

    Since I’m already here, that 30% number seems a bit high from my personal experience but it’s close enough not to argue with.

    I’ve got two skeg induced scars, one on my foot (13 stitches) and another on my thigh but a bunch of others from various other bits (I got cut once by a chunk of a board that hit me in the chest after Hurricane Bell blew through in 1976)
    and the ever present jetties I surfed around as a kid (I’m goofy footed and the left break on our beach was closer than would be ideal most summers; we had a lot more room the rest of the year).

    Enjoy the waves and keep writing.

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