Good day to go out this morning, and probably tomorrow as well. The waves are chest to shoulder high at west-facing beaches like Venice. There were about 15 guys out, and at least 3 dolphins. It’s nice to see dolphins (assuming they’re not in heat). It reassures you that you’re not surfing in a cesspool. At least not today. And sometimes they put on a show. I’d just paddled out when the dolphins started breaching the water to do Chinese acrobatics. At one point, I was less than 50 feet away from two dolphins breaching like missiles heading straight for me. Yes, it was awesome, but it’s also freaky as hell to have Flipper look like he’s about to go Scud on you. This is a long way to say staying calm in the water is very important. Later in my session, I got held under for a little longer than I expected and my lungs started burning. This happens often, especially as the surf gets bigger. They always tell you to stay calm when you’re held under. I bet it’s also smart to work on increasing your lung capacity so you can hold your breath longer. Even if you don’t surf, this is a good skill to have. Especially if you find yourself in line at Ralphs behind a heavily perfumed metrosexual .
Photo of today’s surf reposted with permission from Swellmagnet.