The picture sums it up: cold, dark, people staring at the break wondering if that lady on Maury’s show was for real. This morning was all about low tide and huge walls that closeout on top of your head as you pop up and get thrown down. And yet, fifteen guys were in the water making the best of it. Some of them actually caught a few. Others just practiced wiping out without getting choked by their leashes. The best way to accomplish this is to either keep your chin tucked or to get your neck surgically removed.
Photo reposted with permissssionss from Swellmagnet.