Venice was really small this morning. The waves were inverted, so you had to surf upside down underwater. Not comfortable if saltwater singes your nosehair. And it does. At least a buddy was there. We spent our time arguing whether the dude’s name was Chico or Chick Corea. He said it was Chico. I said if his name were Chico, he would’ve gone by Chucho, and then he’d be Chucho Valdes. He agreed. This is what you do on a day like this. Argue about music you don’t listen to. There were only three other people out, which means this morning would’ve been a good session for learners, because you could mess up without worrying about your board flying into someone’s face and then finding some spittle (or some fist) in yours. Dogtownsurfer wrote a blurb titled “How Not To Surf” featuring a great series of pics and comments about a basic mistake made by beginners. It’s worth a read. Time travellers: If you go back in time to this morning and are heading out the door, don’t make my mistake: go with the longboard.
(Photo hella reposted with HELLA permission from Swellmagnet)